October 16th, 2003:

Air Flow Meter: fixed

Thanks to the moral support of Justin and the help of the other, other Justin, my AFM is fixed…. I hope.

I cut into the Silicone that held the cap on with a razor blade and pried the cap off with a flat head screw driver. That exposes the inside of the AFM. In the picture below, you can see the AFM without the cap on. This is directly behind the driver’s side head lamp.

Upon closer inspection, it was fairly easy to see what had happened. When I pulled out the terminal wire acceptor (the black box on the flat part of the AFM in the above picture) it pulled off the solder points, as you can see below.

The other, other Justin went to town with his soldering iron and corrected my mistake, as you can see below.

We put the cap back on and I got some Silicone sealant and resealed the unit. This is an important step. Solder (lead and tin) corrodes easily in humidity. Sealing it like this ensures that no dirt or water, and less humidity will enter the chamber.

Thanks Justin and Justin for all of your help.

I’ve got the new AFM in the truck and will carry it around for a few days, just in case.

Thanks to the other, other Justin for the pictures as well.

Air Flow Meter

After lots of poking and prodding and reading, I believe I’ve discovered that I do indeed have a Vane Air Flow Meter, and not a heated wire Air Flow Sensor. I also found a website online that offered the same part that O’Reilly Parts has ordered for me. Only the website had a picture. It is the right part and includes the entire housing.

On my way home from work tonight, I’m going to buy it. Then, I’ll rip mine apart and try to fix it. If it works, I’ll bring the part back and by some silicone sealant to reseal the case. If it doesn’t work, I’ll just replace it and bring back my broken one for a core refund.

The process seems simple enough. 1) Cut through the silicone on the top. 2) Pry the lid off. 3) Figure out where the wires go and which ones have ripped. 4) Solder them to the right spots. 5) Close the lid. 6) Reseal the top. 7) Cross fingers.

One guy at Yotatech was very helpful in leading me in the right direction. I love the Internet. And I love helpful people. If I had had this problem when the truck was first bought (in 1991), I would have no choice but to take it to the dealer or replace the part, as I don’t know any car guys with enough experience in this field.

However, I will need a VERY small pointed solder iron. Anyone want to lend me theirs or even, perhaps, watch me do the repair for moral support?